Top Trends in Watches
Inspired by the vintage phenomenon, watch manufacturers are plundering their archives and reproducing sought after classic styles.
Fine watch
manufacturers are looking into their archives of watch designs and re-issuing classics
from years gone by. If you walk into Royal Caribbean of St Thomas's,
famous for their fine watches, you will be amazed at the classic faces gazing back at
you. Watch manufacturers are well aware of the nostalgia trends that are
sweeping the world. Watch shoppers are looking for watches that bear a heritage,
that have stood the test of time and are again gaining popularity. The
Piaget Emperador has an impeccable heritage, and a timeless look. The elegance of
the classic time pieces are what shoppers are searching for and they are flying off of the
shelves.
In an environment that could not be more different- the recently opened Rumi Supper Club in Miami Beach- there's a flutter of interest around a handsome rectangular watch face with a small seconds display at 6 o'clock. At first glance, the item looks like a genuine vintage model but it is, on closer inspection, far too perfect. It turns out to be a remake of a Girard-Perregaux design from 1945. In its re-issued form, it can be purchased at Royal Caribbean in St Thomas. The first release in 1995 was a big international hit for the company, particularly in Japan where it was voted "Most Beautiful Watch of 1996."
There was a time when "re-issue" ( a euphemism for "repro") was a dirty word, associated with the fake heritage design that br9ought us video cases masquerading as tooled, first edition book jackets. How tastes change? The new breed of repro is elite, niche, and very cool. It started with one or two old established watch manufacturers a few years ago, wanting to revamp their image by reinterpreting their classic designs, and has rapidly crept into the entire watch making industry. And it's not just watch makers; fashion, design, beauty, publishing and even music can't move fast enough to re-issue anything from lipstick shades to lampshades, in the knowledge that there's a generation of culturally savvy, authenticity-seeking consumers out there with a taste for the newly made "old".
Re-issues appeal to the type of in-the-know person who gets a thrill from a handcrafted time-piece, meticulously engraved and with perfect period detailing. One of the most enduring examples of classic watch design is the Cartier Tank. So successful has this design been, in terms of sales as well as brand building (over a million Tank watches have been sold since 1919) , that Cartier is now digging even deeper into its own history.
The latest launch is a re-make of a watch devised for
the pasha of Marrakech who wanted to be able to swim in his Tank- the Tank Etanche
debuted in 1931 and was the world's first square-shaped, water-resistant watch. In
those days, every corner in a watch's case caused another problem in the attempt to make a
water-resistant watch but Cartier overcame these with aplomb.
The
re-issued Tank a Vis forms part of Cartier's exclusive Private collection and gets its
name from the screw at each corner which, although functional, gives a beautiful balance
to the watch.
For Piaget, reinvigorated after its purchase in 1993 by the Richemont group (who also own Cartier) the idea was simply to build on the brands rich legacy and position as one of the last remaining Swiss watch "manufacturers". In Piaget's case, this means building on its reputation for producing ultra-thin movements. The outcome was the launch in 1998 of the Altiplano range, a watch with iconic status and the distinction of bearing the Piaget name from the design stage right down to its individual component parts.
The appeal of re-issued item or one based on a classic design is the integrity of the product and the rich heritage behind it. Only the leading, long established watch manufacturers -- those with a history that sets them apart- have the kind of archives that go back decades, even centuries, to draw upon. In many people's eyes, the epitome of watch making excellence is Patek Phillipe. This is a company that sells itself on the old-fashioned virtues of tradition and passing things down to the next generation; who still employs an enamellist to paint pastoral scenes on pocket watches using one badger hair.
When you talk about elegant watches, the image that springs to mind is the Calatrava; a classic design that has never ceased to evolve over the last 70 years but without ever changing its fundamental identity. The first Calatrava, named after the Caltrava cross that is the company's emblem, was launched in 1932 during the Great Depression. Realizing that the complicated, multi-function watches which Patek Phillipe had thus far specialized in producing would find few buyers in a recession, the company changed tack and started producing a greatly simplified watch that was cheaper to manufacture and was stripped of all superfluous ornamentation. Twenty different versions of the Caltrava have been released since 1932, each adhering to the basic design and each carrying the coveted Geneva Seal awarded to only those watches that have met a set of criteria established over one hundred years ago. You can be certain that the movement on the inside more than matches the elegant beauty on the outside.
But how does the watch manufacturers decide which watch to re-manufacture and when? The design must be retro but also contemporary. The success of Baume & Mercier's Hampton Collection is built on just such a balance between retro charm and contemporary elegance.
It's no surprise to discover that re-issued designs tend to be in limited editions and sold in few shops. But for the truly dedicated watch lover, that is part of the fun---- the pursuit!